Wearing trousers shorter is popular right now. But before you make a trip to the tailors, you might want to test the waters with turn ups. Throughout the years most styles have been given an upgrade with a few careful folds at the ankle, from the tailored trouser of the 1930’s to a classic pair of selvedge denim jeans. Here are my 5 tips for the perfect 21st Century turn-up:
Fold don’t roll
Make sure you make a clean fold all the way round the hem for your turn up, it stops the trousers gathering or bunching round the ankle and looking shapeless. This is particularly important with denim, otherwise you’ll get strange vertical folds running up the legs.
Watch your edges
Not all trousers are created equal, it’s worth checking the inside seams that you’ll be revealing. Some styles are perfect for turn-ups, particularly selvedge denim as it reveals the stitch detailing on the seams that gives the fabric its name. Most well-made chinos should also have some sort of detailing or a neat edge that will look good when turned up.
However, some less well-made trousers will have raw seams, or badly finished edges that can look messy when turned up. Generally, it’s worth always checking the inside of your clothes to see how good the finishing is, this is where good quality construction is most easily noticeable.
Close to the bone
You can judge the height of your turn ups against your ankle bone –anything up to an inch above the ankle bone is about right, anything more than that and you risk straying into pedal pusher territory.
Too many turns
If you need more than 3 or 4 turns to get your trousers to the desired height, they’re probably too long to start with. Turn ups should just be about raising the hem above its normal height, not gathering up inches of unneeded trouser leg. You’ll end up with bulging rings of material round your ankles – time to call in a professional and get them taken up bit.
If you’re not ready for the sock-less ‘Riviera’ look with your turn ups then you’re going to have to step up your socks game. Ditch the old ‘days of the week’ disasters you’ve been hiding down there and invest in some solid plain socks in a variety of colours – throw in a few marls and maybe even a pattern or two if you’re feeling flash.